Chapter Twenty-Six: The Charms of the Yao Village (Part One)

Poor Kang Ning had no idea what the three Yao girls were singing in their native voices; he only felt that their harmonies were rich with charm. In less than two minutes after their song began, more than twenty men and women had already gathered outside the door.

Amid friendly laughter, Kang Ning took a bowl of wine from the girl in the middle, as indicated by the old man. He took a sip and found this sweet, low-alcohol wine very pleasant, so he raised the bowl and finished the rest in one go, which drew cheers from inside and outside the house.

The girl politely took the empty bowl from Kang Ning, and the second girl brought him another large bowl, filled with over half a pound of wine. Under the gaze of more than twenty pairs of eyes, Kang Ning could only brace himself and drink it slowly. After three bowls, his handsome face began to flush.

The people outside crowded into the main room. The women went to help in the back, while seven or eight young and middle-aged men, along with the old man, sat down around Kang Ning and began to chat enthusiastically.

A short, stocky young man grinned at Kang Ning and said, “Brother, if you hadn’t finished those three bowls just now, I would have turned right around and gone home to keep sleeping.”

“Don’t listen to his nonsense. He smells wine like a leech smells blood,” interjected a sharp-faced middle-aged man, prompting another round of laughter. When the laughter subsided, he turned to Kang Ning and asked, “My great-aunt said after getting off the bus, everyone else left and no one paid her any mind. You helped her carry her load home in the middle of the night. Thank you, little brother. People like you are rare these days. Our Yao people don’t usually trust outsiders, but tonight, your actions made me feel you’re one of us! My family name is He. How should we address you? Are you Han or Zhuang?”

Wiping the sweat from his brow, Kang Ning politely replied, “My name is Xiao Ning, Han nationality. Uncles and brothers, I’m really sorry to disturb everyone so late. The elders should rest early. After a short break, I’ll take my leave.”

“You wouldn’t know! Brother, you haven’t been to a Yao village before, have you?” Seeing Kang Ning’s sincerity, the middle-aged man took a liking to him and explained, “It’s not your fault. Our White Trouser Yao are always hospitable. When someone enters our village, we treat them with kindness—and since you helped one of our own, on behalf of our three hundred villagers, young and old, I thank you!”

Kang Ning was a little surprised. This man was likely the village chief or party secretary; otherwise, how would he be so practiced in these formalities?

He replied humbly, “It was nothing worthy of thanks. Brother, your Guibei dialect is so authentic—you must be a well-traveled man.”

The middle-aged man immediately picked up on Kang Ning’s meaning. “Ha, you’re sharp! I’m almost fifty. This is Xiaodong Village in Baxu Township. I’ve been village chief for more than twenty years, often attending meetings outside, and I’ve served as a people’s congress representative for over a decade. In recent years, the government values our Yao people greatly. Every year, each village sends teams to big cities like Lanning and Guilin for exchanges and performances. The copper drums and bamboo pipes of our White Trouser Yao are unique in all of China. But in the village, I’m not the top authority—our clan chief, my great-uncle, holds that honor. No one dares cross him—except, of course, my great-aunt.”

At this, everyone laughed heartily and began telling Kang Ning about their village. Kang Ning glanced curiously at the yellow-toothed old man beside him. It was hard to imagine this sharp-featured elder was afraid of his wife, but when he heard the old lady he escorted home was seventy-one and could still carry a hundred pounds of firewood over miles of mountain trails, Kang Ning couldn’t help but exclaim in admiration.

After about half an hour of cheerful conversation, the women came out and set low, long tables, quickly filling them with dishes Kang Ning had never seen before. Even Kang Ning, who considered himself well-traveled, was amazed and full of praise.

Kang Ning raised a bowl to toast the clan chief. “Elder…”

“My child, you must address him properly. At your age, by seniority, you should call him Great Uncle!” the old lady said as she placed a large bowl of braised mountain chicken in front of Kang Ning, correcting his address without ceremony. Everyone realized at once how much the old lady liked and valued him. Seeing Kang Ning’s surprise, she glared at him in mock reproach, “What, you’re unwilling? Oh—I see, you think our Yao family isn’t worthy!”

“No, no! I couldn’t wish for more! Great Uncle, Great Aunt, I toast you both!” Kang Ning hurriedly stood and offered a respectful toast. The seventy-five-year-old clan chief took his bowl and drank a hearty gulp, then handed it to his wife, who sipped and passed it back to Kang Ning to finish. As he drained the bowl, cheers erupted. Only now did Kang Ning truly become accepted by the Yao villagers.

After that came another custom: Kang Ning had to toast every person present with a small bowl. After seven or eight bowls, the old man noticed Kang Ning was already flushed and unsteady, so he stopped the others from returning the favor and started serving Kang Ning a piece of every dish with his own chopsticks.

Sitting beside Kang Ning, the village chief warmly introduced every dish: spicy chicken, glutinous rice-cured meat, smoked wild boar liver, pickled bracken, cured yellow muntjac, wood ear mushrooms in sauce… Kang Ning, famished, ate with gusto, delighting the two elders, who were all smiles—having a guest enjoy one’s food and wine is a great source of pride among the Yao.

Halfway through the feast, two gorgeously dressed girls left the women’s table inside and sat gracefully on either side of Kang Ning. He recognized them as two of the singers who’d greeted him at the door. Their close presence made him awkward, but both the girls and the others were perfectly at ease.

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After that tense and thrilling escape, let everyone’s nerves relax a bit with a gentler scene.